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Last Updated: Sunday, 22 June, 2003, 19:22 GMT 20:22 UK
Marrying faiths in Tanzania
By Tira Shubart
BBC correspondent in Dar es Salaam

"More planning goes into these ceremonies than anything else in this country," a Tanzanian friend remarked in a weary and somewhat pleased manner, when I told him I had arrived in Dar es Salaam to attend a wedding.

Dar Es Salaam
The Tanzanian capital manages to maintain religious harmony
Tanzanian weddings are indeed spectacular events. And the wedding I was invited to was even more special: it was a double wedding.

Two men from one family marrying two women from two families. Not a simple matter with three families, 500 guests and two religions.

At a time when the world religions sometimes seem far apart, Tanzania, in keeping with its peaceful history, sees more than a few marriages between Muslims and Christians.

Half the nation follows Islam and half Christianity but this is a country where people proudly identify themselves as Tanzanians above all else.

Tribal backgrounds are simply that. The legacy of Julius Nyerere, who led the country to independence, is still a powerful force and he was a true nation builder.

But there is another legacy which Nyerere left: the itinerary. I have worked in Tanzania long enough to know all meetings, conferences, seminars and political rallies are laden with itineraries. And they usually exist only to increase frustrations as they inevitably run late.

Kisses scheduled

Now, when I opened the invitation the ceremony, I discovered the wedding itinerary. There were 20 different stages on this Programme of Events.

But this was a charming itinerary with timings for "Cutting the Cake" and "Big Hugs and Kisses", as well as the "Opening of the Dance Floor".

Bad Wedding Committees are notorious for spending the money on their own wining and dining while they discuss venues, music and food

Happily - and traditionally - the "Arrival of the Invited Guests" was a bit late, so the "Arrival of the Parents, the Grooms and the Bride's Entourage" was also behind schedule.

This allowed valuable time to hang the photograph of President Mkapa in the seaside gazebo where the civil ceremony was to take place.

Fetching pink ribbons were fixed on the official photo as the 500 guests took their seats on the sloping lawn facing one of the most picturesque bays on the Indian Ocean.

Sun shone on cue

The Wedding Committee members used this extra time well. Yes - every Tanzanian wedding has a committee of friends to solicit and spend contributions for the elaborate celebrations.

Bad committees are notorious for spending the money on their own wining and dining while they discuss venues, music and food. Good committees are rare. This one possessed the foresight and efficiency of a half dozen Jeeves.

The late Tanzanian leader Joseph Nyerere
Nyerere would surely have approved

As the bridal entourages arrived in a cloud of white chiffon and veils, to the ululations of their respective families, the clouds of the late rainy season disappeared. The sun emerged on cue. I suspected the Wedding Committee had something to do with that.

A city official read the vows twice - with a special section on property and legal rights. Then Bashiri and Twilumba, followed by Zaharani and Veronica, repeated the vows.

Both couples signed the marriage papers and were declared husband and wife. It was the fastest bit of paperwork I have seen in Tanzania. And the happiest.

Love above all

The celebrations then began. Under the palm trees people in traditional African dress shared wedding cake and toasts with young Dar yuppies in designer sunglasses and smart suits.

The families and guests had gathered from across the country, young and old, rural and urban, Christian and Muslim.

You cannot change a person's relationship with God, so why don't you just concentrate on the relationship with your wife?
Advice to new husband

So what did my fellow guests think about the different religions marrying?

"What matters first is love, then all else follows" said a Christian friend. "It's wonderful, it means less conflict in the world," enthused a Muslim photographer.

Another Muslim guest said that, when he had married his Christian wife, his father had given him this advice: "You cannot change a person's relationship with God, so why don't you just concentrate on the relationship with your wife?"

The children, he said, were taught about truth and the similarities between the Bible and the Koran.

Another guest cheered: "After all, we are all Tanzanians - together and united!"

Crocodiling bankers

The Tanzanians United at the wedding then danced to the music of the Tanzanites - the hottest band in town.

The women dominated the dancing and shimmied their way in an ever-increasing circle around the relatives of the brides and grooms.

Danced to an Arabic beat, it was a " Rousha Roho", meaning "it makes your heart skips a beat".

More than hearts were skipping as everyone danced with a grace and rhythm rarely seen at British weddings. And the older guests - greeted by more ululations - had all the best moves.

The time for the special gifts from business colleagues had arrived. Never had I expected to see bankers and computer programmers dance in a beautifully syncopated crocodile that had us all clapping and swaying - while balancing boxes glittering with shiny ribbons.

The table of gifts was groaning under the weight of the offerings but I was sorry that the milking cow presented to one of the brides was not in attendance.

The cow would have been useful for morning tea, because when I limped away from the dance floor in the early hours, the bridal couples and the ever-enthusiastic Wedding Committee were still dancing under the moonlight.

SEE ALSO:
Tanzanian women get online bug
18 Nov 02  |  Technology
Tanzania, Ethiopia origin for humans
02 Apr 03  |  Science/Nature
Country profile: Tanzania
27 May 03  |  Country profiles


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